Reale is one of the last restaurants with three Michelin stars in Italy and one of the purest, most essential, and integral gastronomic spaces. A constant search for simplicity precedes his kitchen and defines his dishes.
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A little over three years ago, the Italian restaurant Reale, run by the chef Niko Romito, located in the province of L’Aquila, in Castel di Sangro, became the new tri-star Italian edition of the Michelin guide. He recognizes the gastronomic record that he maintains with great solvency to this day, with the indispensable collaboration of his sister, Cristiana Romito.
The secret of your kitchen, or rather the secrets, is the simplicity and minimalism governing each dish, regardless of their particular conception. The chef is after the purity of flavors, the detachment of every nuance that he does not touch, of each accessory, and the gratuitous brushstroke that tarnishes the essence of the product, in addition to a hasty aesthetic line, forms, and presentations that, to a great extent, take us back to Japanese culture.
Brambilla Serrani PhotographersThat is why to carry out Reale’s cuisine, one starts from scratch, from childhood memories, from longings in which a still neophyte nose tried to find smells, a still virgin palate was striving to discover flavors.
Hence that tangible purity dominates its elaborations. That rooting of the dishes in the traditions most typical of their land. Through research and study, this continuous exploration seeks to be more essential, purer, and more complete.
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It is a dish as basic as white bread, without more. That other elaboration was made with cabbage, mashed potatoes, and rosemary. Their fresh ravioli stuffed with chicken. The sea bass, only accompanied by capers and parsley. Noodles with cheese and pepper it’s that simple. A plate of pigeon, with a pinch of pistachio. Pork belly with celery. Spaghetti with tomato. Watermelon with tomato. Or a dessert-like cherry soup with goat’s milk ice cream. That sought purity, unique and essential objective, is obvious.
Reale’s simple dishes, the result of complex research, an arduous work of minimalism, reduction of essences and concepts, come to the most intense. Minimal expressions full of meanings and truth, of a genuine product.
The message is the restaurant of the Roman hotel Aldrovandi Villa Borghese, a house led on the spot by the young and promising chef Claudio Mengoni and directed by the executive chef and advisor Andrea Migliaccio, a ‘double star’ chef.
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Not a few Italians were surprised by the transformation of the Roman hotel Aldrovandi Villa Borghese restaurant. The prestigious chef Oliver Glowing, who gave his name to the space, left behind the project with two Michelin stars since 2011. A bad financial balance and the impossibility of making such a proposal viable in an unfavorable context seems to have led to the outcome.
However, the gastronomic proposal of this luxurious accommodation had to continue. And to the surprise of many, this materialized with hiring a young chef, unknown to most, Claudio Mengoni. He would be in charge of restoring glory to the restaurant now renamed Assaje, abundance in Neapolitan. And it is succeeding. A Michelin star, for the moment, already recognizes it.
Message RestaurantIn the kitchen of this elegant dining room with a more than secret garden located near Villa Borghese, one of the great and most visited parks in the city of Rome, the cook and his team carry out a cuisine of clear Mediterranean inspiration. Posed with the support and advice of Andrea Migliaccio, chef biestrellado.
The tasting menu, called “Gourmet menu” in this house, is pumpkin risotto with pork belly and balsamic vinegar. Tagliolini with lemon with burrata, raw shrimp, sea asparagus, and oyster leaf. Some veal cheeks with artichokes, horseradish, paprika, and parsley sauce. Or amberjack marinated in tomato water accompanied by caviar, again sea asparagus, avocado, and apple. A proposal that is offered in a pass of five or seven courses.
However, in the Assaje restaurant, we also find a menu and a remarkably varied proposal. Dishes such as spiny lettuce with spring onion cream, anchovy sauce and grilled octopus and Frisella bread in terms of vegetables or soups; like the paccheri with lobster, artichokes, and tarragon if we talk about pasta; the red mullet fillet tempura with aubergines, red onion, and smoked milk cream sauce if we make it with fish; or the duck breast with lettuce, toasted almonds, and red berry sauce if you look at the meat section.
Preparations rooted in Mediterranean tradition and classicism with light contemporary and innovative touches. Essentially what international travelers who come to a hotel establishment like the one that houses the restaurant commanded by Claudio Mengoni demand.